Newbie with lift questions!

[Rubicon_Ryan]

Hi all, and thanks for taking the time to read this!  I am looking to put a lift on my 2005 Rubicon.  Originally I was thinking a 4" lift, but since its not my DD, I'm now considering a 6" lift.  After looking through Q-Tec's lifts, I ended up with more questions than answers.  I did some research online, but still can't decide on what to do.  Any insight to the following would be appreciated:

-Long arm vs short arm lifts.  Which is better and why?
-Will I need a SYE and/or a replacement drive shaft?
-Is there anything else I'll need to consider if I go with this 6" lift.
-Is there a cheaper and/or easier and/or better way to do a lift (without compromising highway safety - not looking to jerry-rig anything)
-Can you combine a (smaller) lift with spacers?  If so, advantages / disadvantages?

Considerations:
-I'm very new to working on "cars".  I'm an engineer, and can figure stuff out, but I have NO experience what-so-ever.
-I have a full set of tools, but no cutting torch, welder, etc, for any required custom fabrication.
-I'd like to swap out my 33" tires for 35" tires.  Not looking to put 40+" tires on it.
-I don't want to beat the crap out of my Jeep.  I'd like to be able to handle all "blues" and some "blacks" without risk of breaking anything too valuable or sustaining significant cosmetic damage.  I know driver experience factors in, but anything "red" will be out-of-the-question.

Thanks again for any feedback you can provide.  As mentioned, I'm very new to this stuff, and I am getting conflicting information from online searches.

[Colli]

I have a 3 inch suspension lift with a 3 inch body lift on my 2000 TJ. It leaves plenty of room for my 35" MTZ tires. I've read lots of posts on long arm vs. short arm. One thing for sure is the long arm seems pricier. Here is a link that goes into an in depth explanation that I don't fully understand but it might make sense to an engineer:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/longarm-basics-879206/

[Rick_Bear]

Ryan,

First off you will NOT need an SYE kit being that your Rubicon is equipped with the (NP241) transfer case which has a fixed yoke.
"Short Arm Suspension" -VS- "Long Arm Suspension" debates have been going on for many years and will continue...
The BIGGEST advantage agreed upon is a "Long Arm Suspension" does provide a smoother, more comfortable ride as well as smoother controlled steering both on & off-road.
You can find both versions manufacturered by many and each will have their individual pluses & minuses as with any suspension lift kit. I know that doesn't help but research doesn't always answer your questions.
What can and will answer your questions is to speak to those with either of the kits and the best place to get feedback on both styles of kits is at a competitive off-road driving event.

I personally have a Clayton 4" Long Arm Suspension kit on my 06' LJ with 35's on 17" rims. Yes, they are the most expensive on the market and there are several reasons why they are.
They were designed through years of competitive off-road driving by the staff and placed into production with everything being HEAVY DUTY for both daily driving and off-road ABUSE.
Most manufacturers kits require removing part and welding in axle trusses. Keep that in mind. If you cannot do that yourself or pay the labor than these are NOT for you.

Long Arm kits do have lower hanging arms than the short arms do. But Clayton uses square tubing which has also been debated over the years versus round tubing. IMO and many others the square tubing provides more strength and durability over long term useage and serious abuse off-road. I've beat the snot out of mine and it is my daily driver...I have been more than pleased with it knowing it has the durability.
Claytons kits also are "beefier" than any others on the market. The joins are almost twice the size as others, the trusses are heavier duty. You get what you pay for with most purchases in life but when it comes to arm kits you will NOT find one more heavy duty then one made by Clayton Offroad Products...PERIOD...! What it equates to is this...The "Short & Long Arm" suspensions provide you with a more controlled articulation versus the standard suspension lifts do. What I mean is when it articulates it won't allow one side to flex too far before the other side compensates to bring the vehicle back to a more controlled level. Can you understand that...? Standard coil spring over shocks will maximize flexability more but be less controlled.

Obviously your personal budget ultimately will secure your decision and I am in no way trying to lead you one way or the other. A standard suspension lift from what you are saying you are looking to do will meet your needs at a substantial less expense for sure.

I hope I was at least a bit helpful...

[Rubicon_Ryan]

Colli, thanks for the link.  Even tho the pictures have been stripped, the graphic is still there, which helps visualize axle movement.

Rick, thank for the detailed response.  I looked into Clayton and Rusty's.  Both require welding, which I haven't done since 8th grade shop class!   

The Skyjacker lift apparently requires no welding, only slight cutting and some drilling, both of which I can do.  I believe BDS also requires no welding.

At this point, I'm thinking I'd prefer to go w/ a long arm kit, as it seems generally agreed upon that it results in a better ride.