76
General Discussion / Re: What did you do to your Jeep today?
« on: November 18, 2009, 05:45:26 pm »
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77
General Discussion / Re: What did you do to your Jeep today?
« on: November 17, 2009, 06:34:54 pm »
Should have gone with you Mike it was a awesome day wayyy better than the one I had wallowing in the mud on my back. But funny how things work out we discovered Jenn's r/s rear axle bearing took a crap ,yes the other side to the one that pass her jeep a few weeks back, so had we'd been hitting those black trails hard all kind of bad things could have happened. You know, since you're going to have that engine mount out you might as well slip in a V8
78
Technical Articles (Read ONLY) / Is your rig trail ready?
« on: November 15, 2009, 12:11:56 pm »
Is your Rig trail ready?
Before you hit the trail do you know what condition your rig is in ? It's the difference in having fun day or a day of inconvenience . While no one can predict internal parts failure or trail damage, (it happens to everyone eventually) there are things every wheeler should do BEFORE trail day.
A pre-trip inspection needs to be done a few days prior to the trip regardless trail difficulty . This should consist of:
Engine Compartment:
Check all fluid levels, Engine oil, power steering, Antifreeze (if it is low you have a leak) BRAKE FLUID if it is low inspect your brake linings mainly the front as they accumulate most of the fluid if they are good look for a leak.
Belts and hoses. Are they brittle, cracked, soft and bulging ?
Battery should be properly secured. A bungee cord doesn't cut it. Fully charged ,terminals clean and tight
Chassis:
Tires, do they have deep cuts into the casing, Do the have enough tread ? Are the lug nuts tight? A loose nut will leave a rust stain around the nut if you find one loose remove the wheel and inspect the stud hole for elongating and cracks replace the stud and nut that was loose and inspect the other for damage.
Brake hoses and lines, Do they have cracks, bulging, dampness at the joints and connections, rub marks in them ? The metal lines are they rusted badly?
Suspension and steering for leaf springs inspect for cracks ( most of the time found directly at the axle tube between the U-bolts) the spring eyes for breaks and bushings for wear. For coil springs are they seated in the pockets? Are they broken? Check the shocks for leaks and bushings for wear.
Check the ball joints for wear and looseness check all steering components for wear , tie rod ends, centerlinks steering shafts u-joints . Steering gear box for looseness at the frame.
Inspect the control and trailing arms for tightness at the axle and frame if they are adjustable make sure the lock nut is tight.
Drivetrain:
Axles , check the fluid level and for contamination it should be a light tan color not milky. For the front axle check the axle shaft U joints there should be no play in them if it has any rust colored powder around the caps replace them, if the are greaseable now is the time to do it.
Driveshafts Look for dents and bends. Inspect the U-joints there should be no play in them, if they have any rust colored powder around the caps replace them, if the are greaseable now is the time to do it. Pump enough grease into them that fresh grease is coming out of all four caps this will make a mess. If you can't get grease out of all four caps the one without grease coming out is going bad, replace it.
Transfer case , does it go into 4wd high and low range ? Inspect the fluid level and for contamination most t/c's take ATF it should be bright red if it's pink you have water in it.
Transmission, Inspect the fluid level and check for contamination.
Recovery Equipment:
Winches, mounting bolts for tightness, check electrical connections for being clean and tight , Winch rope/cable for damage. kinks ,and frays
Tow hooks, are they bent ,cracked, attaching bolts tight?
Recovery strap is it in good condition no frays ,loop stitching tight?
High lift jack is it in good working order? Lube the pins and latches.
Tools:
At the very least a basic set of hand tools: sockets , wrenches both metric and standard up to 1" and 22mm screw drivers, pliers. There could be a whole other thread on what you should bring with you. but this is the bare minimum .
This should take no more than an hour and a half to complete after some practice. It far better and cheaper to do it at home or the shop than to have the issues out on the trail. If you feel uncomfortable doing this ask questions and have your trail buddies show you. Having a good mechanical understanding of your rig is one of the best trail skills you can have.
Before you hit the trail do you know what condition your rig is in ? It's the difference in having fun day or a day of inconvenience . While no one can predict internal parts failure or trail damage, (it happens to everyone eventually) there are things every wheeler should do BEFORE trail day.
A pre-trip inspection needs to be done a few days prior to the trip regardless trail difficulty . This should consist of:
Engine Compartment:
Check all fluid levels, Engine oil, power steering, Antifreeze (if it is low you have a leak) BRAKE FLUID if it is low inspect your brake linings mainly the front as they accumulate most of the fluid if they are good look for a leak.
Belts and hoses. Are they brittle, cracked, soft and bulging ?
Battery should be properly secured. A bungee cord doesn't cut it. Fully charged ,terminals clean and tight
Chassis:
Tires, do they have deep cuts into the casing, Do the have enough tread ? Are the lug nuts tight? A loose nut will leave a rust stain around the nut if you find one loose remove the wheel and inspect the stud hole for elongating and cracks replace the stud and nut that was loose and inspect the other for damage.
Brake hoses and lines, Do they have cracks, bulging, dampness at the joints and connections, rub marks in them ? The metal lines are they rusted badly?
Suspension and steering for leaf springs inspect for cracks ( most of the time found directly at the axle tube between the U-bolts) the spring eyes for breaks and bushings for wear. For coil springs are they seated in the pockets? Are they broken? Check the shocks for leaks and bushings for wear.
Check the ball joints for wear and looseness check all steering components for wear , tie rod ends, centerlinks steering shafts u-joints . Steering gear box for looseness at the frame.
Inspect the control and trailing arms for tightness at the axle and frame if they are adjustable make sure the lock nut is tight.
Drivetrain:
Axles , check the fluid level and for contamination it should be a light tan color not milky. For the front axle check the axle shaft U joints there should be no play in them if it has any rust colored powder around the caps replace them, if the are greaseable now is the time to do it.
Driveshafts Look for dents and bends. Inspect the U-joints there should be no play in them, if they have any rust colored powder around the caps replace them, if the are greaseable now is the time to do it. Pump enough grease into them that fresh grease is coming out of all four caps this will make a mess. If you can't get grease out of all four caps the one without grease coming out is going bad, replace it.
Transfer case , does it go into 4wd high and low range ? Inspect the fluid level and for contamination most t/c's take ATF it should be bright red if it's pink you have water in it.
Transmission, Inspect the fluid level and check for contamination.
Recovery Equipment:
Winches, mounting bolts for tightness, check electrical connections for being clean and tight , Winch rope/cable for damage. kinks ,and frays
Tow hooks, are they bent ,cracked, attaching bolts tight?
Recovery strap is it in good condition no frays ,loop stitching tight?
High lift jack is it in good working order? Lube the pins and latches.
Tools:
At the very least a basic set of hand tools: sockets , wrenches both metric and standard up to 1" and 22mm screw drivers, pliers. There could be a whole other thread on what you should bring with you. but this is the bare minimum .
This should take no more than an hour and a half to complete after some practice. It far better and cheaper to do it at home or the shop than to have the issues out on the trail. If you feel uncomfortable doing this ask questions and have your trail buddies show you. Having a good mechanical understanding of your rig is one of the best trail skills you can have.
79
Technical Advice and Questions / Re: Motor Question
« on: November 12, 2009, 05:03:33 pm »
The motor itself will bolt in but the fuel management system is different, the cylinder head is not the same but will swap between short blocks.
80
General Discussion / Re: What did you do to your Jeep today?
« on: November 09, 2009, 05:30:34 pm »
Stripped a few more things off the 47 CJ2A frame. Should have it ready for Saturdays Black trails ride
81
Technical Advice and Questions / Re: Motor Question
« on: November 09, 2009, 03:30:42 pm »
You need to check the fuel pressure. You could try a new fuel filter but it sounds as if the fuel pump is going bad. You got a MAP sensor code due to it running poorly and engine not creating enough vacuum
82
Technical Advice and Questions / Re: 47 Willys CJ2A
« on: October 30, 2009, 05:25:52 pm »
Cool, although for that money it should be complete and ready to drive/work. I know with ours I tore down everything( the engine was rebuilt prior to us taking possession) the trans and transfer case was trashed lots of pitting it is 62 years olds. You can't know these things unless you disassemble or know the history. I am having fun restoring ours. HEY Mike any suggestions you are the resident expert
83
General Discussion / Re: What did you do to your Jeep today?
« on: October 30, 2009, 05:04:24 pm »
I forgot. I finished putting Jenn's frt. axle together yesterday she did most of the work but i just got tired of seeing it in the driveway on jack stands. I eliminated the split axle Jenn noticed the feel of the frt driveshaft spinning right away.
84
General Discussion / Re: What did you do to your Jeep today?
« on: October 29, 2009, 07:47:05 pm »
I was at the auto paint store a few weeks back and was talking about the stuff they mix up and put in the rattle cans. It definitely has more hardener in it as compared to the shelf stuff. . It was 25.00 a can. For the stuff I was painting I'd rather use the cheaper stuff 5.00 a can . I'll have to see how it holds up. For exterior I'd spring for the more expensive paint. I know for plastic parts, bumper and such they add a flex agent to it so it won't crack so easily.
85
Technical Advice and Questions / Re: '06 TJ Odometer stopped reads all 8's
« on: October 27, 2009, 07:15:45 pm »
needs a cluster i would assume
86
General Discussion / Re: What did you do to your Jeep today?
« on: October 20, 2009, 07:44:32 pm »
Glass beaded and painted numerous bits and piece from the 47 Willys. Than started to remove the tub off the 48 Willys in anticipation of beginning the sheet metal work . Trying to do something each day to keep the momentum going on this regardless of how Jenn tries to side track me with her rearend. 
87
Technical Advice and Questions / Re: Jeep Cherokee Rear
« on: October 19, 2009, 06:28:40 pm »
3.07
88
Technical Advice and Questions / Re: Jeep Cherokee Rear
« on: October 18, 2009, 11:32:04 am »
I looked at it . It's an 8 1/4
89
Beginners Class (Seniors Stay OUT) / Re: History Question 2
« on: October 16, 2009, 10:07:36 am »
No really I couldn't tell you which end of a lug nut goes on first. Hey has anyone seen my metric adjustable wrench?
90
Beginners Class (Seniors Stay OUT) / Re: History Question 2
« on: October 15, 2009, 04:51:41 pm »
"what years did the Jeep transition from each company?"
1941-1953: Willys-Overland
1953-1963: Kaiser-Jeep (calling themselves "Willys Motors")
1963-1970: Kaiser-Jeep
1970-1987: AMC (w/ Renault controlling production in 1986)
1987-1998: Chrysler
1998-2007: DaimlerChrysler AG
2007-2009: Chrysler LLC
2009-Present: Chrysler Group LLC
1941-1953: Willys-Overland
1953-1963: Kaiser-Jeep (calling themselves "Willys Motors")
1963-1970: Kaiser-Jeep
1970-1987: AMC (w/ Renault controlling production in 1986)
1987-1998: Chrysler
1998-2007: DaimlerChrysler AG
2007-2009: Chrysler LLC
2009-Present: Chrysler Group LLC